Getting ready for the new season!

Now that the seasons are changing and the weather is turning colder, there is no better time to check your equipment in preparation for the upcoming skiing and racing season. Carefully inspect your gear and replace any old or worn out equipment so you'll be assured of achieving the best possible results on the mountain this season.

If you failed to 'summerize' your skis in preparation for seasonal storage at the end of last season now would be the perfect time to have your skis tuned-up and the bindings inspected and lubricated. And a tune-up would not be complete without having your edges sharpened and the base and edge angles setup to your specifications. Setting and beveling the angles should only be done by a credible technician following the guidelines listed below for maximum performance. Every skier is different and their setup is unique to them, so be sure to discuss the options with the technician before the process of base and edge beveling begins.

Once your skis have been properly tuned it's time to apply the wax. Note that if your skis are a bit worn, hadn't been prepped for storage at the end of last season, or have recently been stone ground then you'll want to apply a base prepping wax first. All wax manufacturers have versions of base prep wax available for differing conditions. The best choice for older skis is to apply a base prep wax constructed of paraffin blends that include flouro and molybdenum. Molybdenum is a proven formula that 'recharges' the graphite particles in the base of your skis and provides excellent lubrication as it saturates and conditions the base. A base prep wax should always be applied using the hotwaxing method and ironed thoroughly into the base structure of the skis, then scraped off when cooled. However, if the bases are dirty you should use a 'hot scrape' method where the wax is scraped off while still hot in order to remove dirt and oil particles in the base more effectively. If the hot wax method is performed you will need to apply a second layer of base prepping wax, followed by removal when the skis have cooled. You may use a base prepping wax as a stand alone wax for your recreational skiing, but for optimal results it is best as a 'first wax' or foundation for the application of your chosen wax of the day.

Choosing the right wax to use can be complicating to some, but as I noted in previous blog postings -- it is not an exact science. Every wax supplier utilizes their own formula chart to assist in finding the correct wax based on air and snow temperatures, snow conditions and the level humidity. In many cases the conditions may overlap from one grade of wax to the next, making the decision even more difficult. When in doubt you should select a wax that falls in the middle of the chart as your best all-around choice. But racing purests need to be more precise in order to achieve the success between the gates that propels them to a podium finish. The attachment below is the wax guide chart for Swix wax products in order to show the different wax compounds that Swix has developed in their highly successful line of waxes.

Upon selecting the wax to be applied you will then follow the same directions for hotwaxing

as were completed with the base prepping wax. When scraping off the wax always work from the tip of the ski down to the tail and use firm, even pressure to make sure that the wax is completely removed, leaving just a very thin layer on the base of the ski. You want the wax to saturate and adhere to the base of the ski but excess wax left on the base will slow you down, so remove as much as possible.

Now you're ready to begin the critical phases of brushing out the wax and final race prepping the

base for speed. The selection and application of the right wax will give you an edge against the competition, but it's the final prepping of the skis that separates the winners from the the rest of the field.

In my next posting I will review this important process and reveal the strategies, techniques

and tools you will need in order to perform the task.

Joe Pinto, Jr.

"Wax on; Wax off" -- Mr. Miyagi

Without a doubt, the best thing that you can do to your skis is keep the base loaded with wax. A base saturated with wax is a fast base for both racing and all-mountain recreational skiing. Regular use of wax allows your skis to glide and turn easily and it also protects the base. It is an important part of the race preparation and is critical when fractions of seconds are the difference between winning and finishing second in a race.

Most of your standard ski waxes today are made of high quality hydrocarbon paraffins. The basic hydrocarbon wax is the cheapest of the ski waxes available and are good for all around usage. Some waxes in this basic category also contain graphite or molybdenum which are special lubricating additives that repel dirt and oils commonly present in man-made snow. The graphite also 're-charges' the base of your skis by putting in an additive that is present in most common ski bases today made of graphite sintered bases. The next level of high performance waxes are in the low to mid-flourinated range. These waxes are hydrocarbon waxes that include a small percentage of flourocarbon material for added friction reducing lubrication in climates with normal to high humidity. Then there are the high performance line of waxes. These contain a higher amount (up to 15%) of flourocarbon which is needed for water repelency in wetter snow and high humidity. When using the high-flouro waxes it is also recommended that you use a "flouro powder overlay" on top of the base wax. An overlay is a pure powder form of 100% flourocarbon that is usually corked or ironed into the base after the base wax is applied and then brushed out thoroughly to provide an accelerant to the base of the ski. These flouro powders can be extremely expensive (roughly $125 for a 30-gram shaker bottle) and are used primarily by the top level racers looking for that added boost when racing in the speed events.

Waxes come in different forms: solid bar, paste, liquid and powder form. While the paste and liquid forms do provide adequate protection and performance the duration is much less than if the wax were applied by hot waxing with an iron. For the best overall results with lasting protection and performance you need to apply wax using the hot wax method because the heat
helps open the pores of the base material to allow the wax to adhere much better than if applying cold via paste or liquid form. When a hot wax is applied to a ski the base soaks it in like a sponge. When you glide over the snow the base slowly releases wax through the micro-pores in the polyethylene base to provide a thin lubricating layer between the base of the ski and the snow. Lubrication is needed for performance as well as protection against "base burn" which is that fuzzy texture you may notice on the base of your skis when they haven't been waxed in a while. This is actually small shreds of polyethylene fibers caused by abrasive snow. These fibrous shreds actually produce a 'hairy ski', and a hairy ski is a slow ski. Wax also seals your base to prevent harmful oxidation that slows down the glide of the ski.

Choosing the right wax to use on your skis depends on several variables, and is not an exact science. I prefer to consider choosing the right wax formulation to be an art because there is some guessing and creative mixing involved as well as relying on prior knowledge and past results when using a particular wax in certain situations. There are numerous manufacturers of wax on the market today offering waxes in a variety of different categories. The most commonly used waxes on the World Cup circuit are (in alphabetical order) Dominator, Holmenkol, Race Service, Swix and Toko. But many other newer and lesser known companies like RaceWax.com, Vola and SVST produce outstanding products as well for sometimes less the cost of the more well-known brands. All will provide reliable results on the race course when the wax is used for the general purpose it's category dictates. You can purchase a basic "universal wax" which is said to provide performance and protection in all weather and temperature ranges, but for the best results you should choose the wax in the category designed for the temperatures and conditions you will be racing in that day. Wax categories vary by manufacturer, but the one thing that is most common is that the harder waxes are for use in cold temperatures with dry conditions and low humidity while the softer waxes are for use in warm conditions when the snow is wet and the humidity is high. The harder the wax the better it is at protecting the base against abrasive snow. The softer the wax the better it is at repelling moisture found in the snow in warmer conditions. Choosing the waxes that fall in between these two constants is where the guessing and the creativity comes into play. If you are a racer on a tight budget then you will be best suited to buy an all-purpose wax like Swix F4 or Toko Universal paste or liquid to use for race prepping your skis. These will provide good results in most conditions for a short period of time and will only cost about $15.00. For those more inclined to pay a little more for their results then it's best to pick a wax manufacturer and follow their application chart guide. Each supplier has their own scale in which their waxes fall into a category and you can choose the racing wax of the day depending on the variables noted in the chart. A 60-gram block of Swix basic hydrocarbon wax (CH) will cost you around $10.00. The same block in a low flourinated wax (LF) will run about $25.00, while the highly flourinated (HF) wax sells for around $80.00. Each category contains about five different waxes for different temperatures and snow conditions. Again -- the manufacturer's chart will assist you in choosing the right one within their system of waxes. But as I noted earlier, choosing the right wax is not an exact science. Have fun and experiment. Try mixing layers of different waxes when the temperatures may overlap and include two different wax temperature ranges. World Cup race techs do it all the time. You just may find a formula that works for your skis on that particular day that gives you the added edge in beating your competition.

Next week we will review the process of hot waxing, scraping and brushing to prepare your skis for the race or just for a fun day of skiing on the mountain.

Joe Pinto, Jr.

Edge tuning: Setting up and maintaining bevels

Alright, in Part I of this series we reviewed the importance of base structure. Now it's time to fine tune the foundation that supports the base: the ski's edge.

Most skis, especially recreational skis, come new from the factory with a 90-degree angle between the base and edge producing a flat ski, meaning that the angles are neither beveled nor acute. This may be suitable for recreational all-mountain skiing but not so on a technically-demanding giant slalom race course where a racer needs to tip the ski onto it's edges and for those edges to hold through the arc on icy, bumpy terrain. The purpose of beveling your edges is to lift the ski's edge ever so slightly off the snow so as not to engage until the ski is tilted on edge. This is critical to a race ski's performance -- especially in the giant slalom discipline. The general rules of thumb for setting up or beveling the edges on a ski for giant slalom racing is that your base edge should be beveled to between 0.5 and 1 degrees and with the side edge angles commonly beveled at 1 to 3 degrees. Determining the proper acute angle is more a matter of preference and ability than it is a set calculation, although some brand manufacturers suggest the base and edge angles that are best incorporated with their models of skis. What I usually suggest is that if you are an advanced-to-expert level skier and you use your skis primarily for racing only you may want to set your base angle at 1 degree and your side edge angle at 3 degrees. If you are more of an intermediate-level racer and you maintain a 'one-ski quiver' -- meaning that your race skis also double up as your all-mountain skis -- then I would suggest you start with a base angle of no more than 0.5 degrees and a side edge angle at a maximum bevel of 2 degrees and try your skis with that setup. You can always add a more acute angle if you want to later.

The process in which you file the edges to the acute angle of your choice is not difficult to learn for anyone who is handy with tools, but you will need a sturdy bench with vises to secure the ski in place in order to file the edges. Base edge and side edge tuning kits can purchased at your local ski shop or from online dealers for around $40.00 for the do-it-yourselfers. If you are not handy (or don't want to shell out for the edging tools and files) you can have your local ski shop tune the edges and setup the angles you specify for around $12.00 to $15.00 a pair. Once your base and edge angles are set and sharp you'll need to maintain their sharpness with a gummi stone and a diamond stone or ceramic stone. Edges must be sharp from contact point to contact point (tip to tail) for carving. A dull or burred edge will not grip the snow and allow the ski to bend into a turning arc properly, thus causing skidded turns. You need to debur and polish the edges after each and every time you take your skis to the hill with the gummi stone and keep them sharp with a diamond stone or a ceramic stone. A gummi stone as well as a ceramic stone can be picked up at your ski shop for around $7.00 while a medium-grit diamond stone will run you approximately $20.00. Whether you tune your edges on your own or have a ski shop tech sharpen your skis it is essential to maintaining sharp, polished edges on your skis with both tools. When using either the gummi stone or the diamond stone be careful not to dull the edges. You want to rub the stones parallel along the flat sides of the metal edges to avoid dulling the edge itself. Keeping your edges polished and sharp will keep them in-tune much longer and help your skis perform at their optimal level.

Now that you have a structure to your base and your edges are setup and sharp it's time to prep the base for the wax of the day. Next week we'll review the process of race-prepping your skis along with picking and choosing the right wax combination to coincide with the weather, temperature and snow conditions you'll face on the race course.

Joe Pinto, Jr.

The importance of base structure

The first installment in the series on tuning tips involves the importance of base structure.

Base structure is a pattern that is ground into the base of the ski, generally to repel water and break up suction in wet snow as well as provide improved gliding capabilities in cold and very dry conditions. Base structure is also important because it aids in the turning ability of the ski. There are many variable structure patterns to choose from but most fall in the basic category of either linear or cross structures. The depth of the structure is also extremely important and is warranted by varying snow conditions and temperatures. In cold, dry weather a fine structure with a linear pattern is best because the cold, crystalline snow calls for a smoother structure pattern to minimize friction caused by the drier air (low humidity) and on new or fine-grained old snow. A structure of medium depth works well in temperatures right around the freezing point (32 degrees), while a coarse structure provides optimal performance in wet snow and with
temperatures well above the freezing point because the deeper channels repel water and break up the suction created between the ski and snow. But beware of one caveat: a coarse structure does not work as well in colder, drier conditions as the deeper cut structure pattern acutally
increases static friction under these conditions. While a fine, linear structure can be applied by hand using a stiff, steel bristle brush it is best to have a structure pattern applied using a stone grinding machine at your local ski shop. Discuss which pattern would be best for your skis with the technician as he or she will be able to assist you in choosing the one that is best suited for the climate you race in as well as the brand of ski. A fine, broken structure may produce a fast race base on an Atomic GS ski where as a medium depth, cross or broken structure pattern may be best suited on Volkl RaceTigers. Check with the tuning tech for options. And remember this: once the skis have been stone ground it will take numerous cycles of hot waxing, scraping and brushing before the skis will be 'race ready' and able to perform at their optimal level. This process will be discussed later in the series on tuning tips.

Check in again next week for Part II in the series on tuning tips when we will review the importance of the proper base and edge angle on your race skis.

Until next week...

Joe Pinto, Jr.

Tuning Tips for Recreational-Level Racers

Hello, fellow racers. As a racer and professionally-trained ski tech with nearly 30 years of experience tuning skis for both racers and recreational skiers, I have volunteered my services
to provide tune-up tips each week on this site. The tips provided will be to help those of you who race gates in the Corporate League on Thursday nights as well as for the 'weekend warrior' who partakes in NASTAR, A.S.R.A. and Masters level racing. Each week throughout the season a new tip will be provided to help both the novice as well as the advanced racer to race prep their skis in order to achieve the optimal performance on the hill. It is said that to be successful in Giant Slalom racing that it is 80% the technical ability of the athlete and 20% the wax and tune-up of the skis on race day that make the difference. While others here with more expertise in the area of teaching technical ability will help you with the 80%, it is my job to shave off those tenths-of-seconds from your run times by giving you the tips to keeping your equipment performing at it's best. This blog is an open forum and welcomes your questions and input at any time, so please feel free to ask me if you have a tuning question or concern with your equipment.

Thanks,
Joe Pinto, Jr.