Edge tuning: Setting up and maintaining bevels

Alright, in Part I of this series we reviewed the importance of base structure. Now it's time to fine tune the foundation that supports the base: the ski's edge.

Most skis, especially recreational skis, come new from the factory with a 90-degree angle between the base and edge producing a flat ski, meaning that the angles are neither beveled nor acute. This may be suitable for recreational all-mountain skiing but not so on a technically-demanding giant slalom race course where a racer needs to tip the ski onto it's edges and for those edges to hold through the arc on icy, bumpy terrain. The purpose of beveling your edges is to lift the ski's edge ever so slightly off the snow so as not to engage until the ski is tilted on edge. This is critical to a race ski's performance -- especially in the giant slalom discipline. The general rules of thumb for setting up or beveling the edges on a ski for giant slalom racing is that your base edge should be beveled to between 0.5 and 1 degrees and with the side edge angles commonly beveled at 1 to 3 degrees. Determining the proper acute angle is more a matter of preference and ability than it is a set calculation, although some brand manufacturers suggest the base and edge angles that are best incorporated with their models of skis. What I usually suggest is that if you are an advanced-to-expert level skier and you use your skis primarily for racing only you may want to set your base angle at 1 degree and your side edge angle at 3 degrees. If you are more of an intermediate-level racer and you maintain a 'one-ski quiver' -- meaning that your race skis also double up as your all-mountain skis -- then I would suggest you start with a base angle of no more than 0.5 degrees and a side edge angle at a maximum bevel of 2 degrees and try your skis with that setup. You can always add a more acute angle if you want to later.

The process in which you file the edges to the acute angle of your choice is not difficult to learn for anyone who is handy with tools, but you will need a sturdy bench with vises to secure the ski in place in order to file the edges. Base edge and side edge tuning kits can purchased at your local ski shop or from online dealers for around $40.00 for the do-it-yourselfers. If you are not handy (or don't want to shell out for the edging tools and files) you can have your local ski shop tune the edges and setup the angles you specify for around $12.00 to $15.00 a pair. Once your base and edge angles are set and sharp you'll need to maintain their sharpness with a gummi stone and a diamond stone or ceramic stone. Edges must be sharp from contact point to contact point (tip to tail) for carving. A dull or burred edge will not grip the snow and allow the ski to bend into a turning arc properly, thus causing skidded turns. You need to debur and polish the edges after each and every time you take your skis to the hill with the gummi stone and keep them sharp with a diamond stone or a ceramic stone. A gummi stone as well as a ceramic stone can be picked up at your ski shop for around $7.00 while a medium-grit diamond stone will run you approximately $20.00. Whether you tune your edges on your own or have a ski shop tech sharpen your skis it is essential to maintaining sharp, polished edges on your skis with both tools. When using either the gummi stone or the diamond stone be careful not to dull the edges. You want to rub the stones parallel along the flat sides of the metal edges to avoid dulling the edge itself. Keeping your edges polished and sharp will keep them in-tune much longer and help your skis perform at their optimal level.

Now that you have a structure to your base and your edges are setup and sharp it's time to prep the base for the wax of the day. Next week we'll review the process of race-prepping your skis along with picking and choosing the right wax combination to coincide with the weather, temperature and snow conditions you'll face on the race course.

Joe Pinto, Jr.